DIY: Valentine One hardwire install

This post outlines hardwiring of my Valentine One radar detector. The same instructions can be used to wire almost any aftermarket electronic device. If I can do it, anyone can do it. Seriously. The toughest part is probably removing the (sometimes stubborn) plastic fuse panel trim piece.

Skill Level: 3/10

This is the idea behind the wiring:


Parts:

• Add-a-circuit kit (left)
  
• Valentine 1 hardwire kit (right)
  
• Zip ties

Tools:

• Flathead screwdriver
• T20 torx screwdriver
• Credit card

Step 1: Mount V1 on windshield using suction cups. This will give you an idea how much slack to leave when routing the power cable around the upholstery.

Step 2: Open fuse panel trim piece it is held by four clips. Prying with a flathead screwdriver is the easiest way to remove the trim piece. Wrapping a paper towel around the flathead to avoid scratching the plastic piece. It should "pop" out of place if you apply the right amount of force.


Step 3: Run power cable around uphostry, a-pillar, behind trim piece, and into the fuse box area. Credit card is handy for tucking the cable behind the a-pillar piece.


Step 4: Attach ground wire from the V1 hardwire adapter to body. Pick a bolt that's attached to the metal body frame.

Step 5: Connect cable to port labeled "main unit". Use provided velcro to attach V1 hardwire adapter to fuse box. Use zip ties as necessary to keep things tidy.

Step 6: Add-a-circuit kit is the easiest way to power an aftermarket accessories - just plug into any fuse slot .

Remove a fuse that turns on/off with ignition. Replace with add-a-circuit. Place original fuse in lower slot. Add a low amp fuse (3 or 5 amps) in the top slot.


It looks like this after the add-a-circuit kit is installed:


Step 7: Last step is to connect the add-a-circuit to red cable from V1 hardwire kit using the supplied wiring harness connector. Wrap the harness around the add-a-circuit red cable, crimp, and connect to red cable from V1 hard wire kit.



Wiring after everything is connected.


Step 8: turn on V1 to make sure everything is good to go BEFORE reinstalling the fuse panel trim piece!


Step 9: Reinstall trim piece. Done.

Cups not going Zoom-Zoom

In response to my brother's blog about his car's cup holders (Cups going zoom-zoom, 7/18/08)...

The Germans take a different approach to solving your drinking-and-driving* dilemma. Instead of a "hole" for to put your favorite beverage in, Volkswagen uses a clamp style cup holder that adjusts to the girth of your beverage holder:


This design eliminates the problem of beverage being too fat to fit or too skinny 95% of the time. Here's a demonstration with a regular water bottle alongside a 32oz Gatorade bottle:


Your big boy 64oz Super Big Gulp® would fall into the 5% no-go category. Since I don't have a 64 oz Super Big Gulp® cup around, here's a 1 gallon water bottle (also a no-go) instead for illustration purposes:


The cup holder also tucks away neatly and out of sight when not in use:


As cool as this cup holder is, it is not without flaws. Besides the 64 oz Super Big Gulp® limitation, here's another major unfortunate design flaw:


CAN'T GET TO THE CD PLAYER WHEN THE CUP HOLDERS ARE IN USE!!!!! sdgskjgsogjswlgsrejgl!

Doesn't look like there's a DIY modification that can correct this problem. But all in all, this is a better design than most.

*Drinking-and-driving does not imply alcoholic content of your beverage while driving. In this instance, it is referring to the act of consuming beverages, regardless of alcoholic content** , while operating an automobile.
**This blog does not condone driving under the influence of drugs or alcohol. In fact, it is just stupid. Don't do it.

How well built are American cars?

heh, heh.

DIY: Headlight bulb replacement

Similar to Benny's post on brake install on his blog, the purpose of this post is to "show you how easy it is to install car stuff, so you don't end up wasting money to get them installed."

Today, we're tackling a headlight bulb replacement. This is probably one of the simplest maintenance item you can do on your car. On a scale of 1-10, this is a skill level 0 job.

Tools required:

• your hand(s)
  

As you can see, my right headlight is out. Just checking to make sure I replace the right bulb.


Item to be installed: one Sylvania SilverStar H7 bulb, purchased from a local Kragen store. I bought the more expensive SilverStar to match my other headlight, but less expensive OEM standard halogen bulbs will work too.

You can find the correct type of bulb to purchase from your car's owner manual, tirerack.com under products -> other -> lighting -> bulb, or in bulb catalogs at your local automotive part store.


Step 1:

Open hood. The back of the headlight assembly is exactly where you'd expect it to be - right behind the headlights.


Step 2:

Remove rear plastic covering piece. On a Volkswagen, it is held in place by a wire bar thingamajig (on the far left in the picture below). My headlights are not on, by the way. The amber glow is from the sun. Having your lights on while replacing your headlights = bad idea.

The bulb is also held in place by a wire clip thingamajig. To remove the bulb, unhook the thingamajig, unplug the wiring harness and pull it out. The main headlight bulb is on the far right in the picture below (plugged into the harness with the yellow and brown cables).


Here's a look at the burnt out bulb (left) and the new bulb (right). You can see the burned-out filament in the old bulb.

Step 3:

Install the bulb by doing step 1 and 2 in reverse. Really, it's that simple.

The GTi is now back to two functioning headlights. No fix-it ticket for me, baby!


Step 4:

Discard burnt-out bulb and and packaging in nearest trash can. Lucky me, tomorrow is trash pick-up day.



Step 5 (optional):

Pat self on back.


Total project time: 8 minutes, including photos.

Why Subarus Rock

Don't try this at home.